Tactical Knife Size/Carry/Access: First consider size if you are going to carry your tactical knife in combat. You may prefer a large knife, and not be too concerned about the weight. If you carry a large tactical knife, remember that the sheath could add about a pound and a half to your gear. Realize that the knife will spend most of its time in the sheath or mounting system. Consider the quick removal and relocation feature of any knife system. Practice using your tactical knife and automatic pulls will come naturally. Practice makes perfect.
Grip: Think about how and in what position it will be held. Also how secure do you want it. If you want quick access you may not want a super-secure finger ring. If the knife will be held in a defensive or tactical grip style, not every handle shape will accommodate this. Simplified handle forms and shapes can work with both types of grip.
Tactical Knife Blade:
Angle: Straight blades are chosen for rescue work, straight thrusts, chores, and sawing. Angular blades are more useful for actual knife combat and defense. If the knife is held in a tactical or defensive grip, the orientation of a highly angled blade will allow for a stronger wrist lock.
Style: Choose a slender, straight point knife if you will be using it mainly for combat and piercing. For ripping or slashing, a sweeping blade may be a better choice. For chopping and slashing recurve blades are great.
Finish and materials: Finish depends on materials used. Consider how easy or difficult the tactical knife will be to clean or keep clean.
For corrosion resistance choose high chromium stainless steel blades.
For a blued or black blade choose a high carbon tool steel. This blade requires more attention and care.
Some blade steels can be so hard and wear-resistant that sharpening them in the field is nearly impossible.
Colored handles may be cool and unique but can be a target for theft.
|
Size:
The most practical dive knives are medium sized ones which are small enough to mount onto your BC are, leg, or arm, but large enough for you to grip securely. A dive knife with a four to five inch blade and similar sized handle is easily managed and can be a very useful tool once underwater.
Large knives (over 5 inch blade) can be awkward and can easily cut you or puncture you BC.
If buying a mini knife (2-3 inch blade) make sure that the handle is longer than 2-3 inches so you can grip it securely, especially with gloves on.
Shape:
Straight edges cut plastic, monofilament fishing line and nylon rope better. Serrated edges are more efficient at cutting natural fiber rope and kelp. With a serrated knife, serrations should run almost the entire length of the blade, making it possible to use a good sawing motion. Many dive knives on have both straight and serrated edges, making them great in a variety of situations.
Sharp tips most commonly used for spearfishing purposes. For other purposes such as prying, digging, hacking, and chiseling, however, it is easy to break a sharp tip off. This is where a blunt tip is useful. Sharp tips can also cut you or puncture your BC, so for a safe and effective tool, a blunt tip is the best.
You should also look for a line cutting notch, which can come in handy when cutting small lines.
Material:
Stainless Steel: Most dive knives are made steel, either 300 or 400-series stainless steel alloys. All "Stain-less" Steel knives will show some signs of rust due to their high carbon content (carbon creates tensile strength). Because stainless steel knives are not completely rustproof, they will require maintenance. After each use, rinse well with fresh water and dry outside of its sheath. Coat with a light layer of oil or silicone.
300-Series Alloy: The lower the number (300-series alloy), the more corrosion resistant the knife is, but the less able it is to keep a sharp edge. If you buy a 300-series alloy knife, you can spend a little less time on maintenance, but you'll have to sharpen it after a couple of uses. Remember, if you buy a blunt-tip knife, it is not always important that the edge is extremely sharp.
400-Series Alloy: A 400-series alloy knife will hold an edge for longer, but is more susceptible to corrosion, and may break if used as a pry bar. If you purchase a 400-series alloy knife you will need to wash and oil it after every use, but you won't have to sharpen it as often.
Titanium: Unlike stainless steel knives, titanium knives are almost completely rustproof and corrosion resistant because they contain no carbon. The result is a knife that will hold an edge for numerous dives without sharpening, and requires almost zero maintenance.
|