US Tactical offer a line of top quality competitively priced Dive Gear for both commercial and private uses. All our Dive Gear is built for hard use in harsh marine environments, and will not rust or corrode. We supply Military, Law Enforcement, First Responders, Cross-Fitters and adventurers with Dive Gear. Our Dive Gear is guaranteed or your money back.

DIVE/SCUBA MASK

All of the Dive/Scuba Masks featured at US Tactical are constructed of the highest quality materials; with impact resistant tempered glass lenses and double feathered skirts that provide a larger sealing surface for an overall better fit.

Before you use your Dive/Scuba Mask
Fogging is one of the most common problems experienced by new snorkelers and scuba divers and there is a very simple solution. New masks have an oil film that was deposited on the tempered glass lens as part of the manufacturing process. This oil film causes water vapor to bead on the lens of the mask causing a significant amount of fogging which also prevents defog solutions from working effectively.

The first step in preventing a Dive/Scuba Mask from fogging is to remove this oil film using an effective mild abrasive that will not scratch the lens. Apply a small amount to the inside lens of the mask and scrub thoroughly with the tips of your fingers. After a good rinse the inside of the lens should be “squeaky clean.” You may need to do this more than once to completely remove the oil film. It is also a good idea to occasionally re-clean the lens depending on how often you use your mask. Oils from your skin, lotions and sun block can adhere to the lens causing the mask to be more likely to fog.

Defogging Your Dive/Scuba Mask
Once your mask has been prepared; you will need to use an anti-fog solution before each use. Follow the manufacturer instructions. Your Dive/Scuba mask is now ready to go for a fog free snorkel or dive.

If you are the type of snorkeler or diver who likes to remove your Dive/Scuba mask on the surface, keep in mind that you will have to defog your mask again because the defog solution will rinse away. It is best to keep your Dive/Scuba mask in place until your snorkel or dive is completed for the day.

Wearing Your Dive/Scuba Mask
Proper positioning and adjustment of the Dive/Scuba Mask strap is very important. The strap should be snug but not tight enough to distort the soft skirt of the mask. Over tightening can actually cause a well fitting mask to leak. The widest part of the strap should be centered on the back of your head more towards the top. If the sides of the straps are hitting your ears the strap is too low. To put your mask on, it is best to fit the mask to your face and then pull the strap into place. Be sure to remove any hair that may get caught in between the mask skirt; this can cause your mask to leak.

Mask Care And Maintenance
High quality Silicone Dive/Scuba Masks should be rinsed in fresh water after each use, allowed to completely dry and stored in a cool dry place away from direct sunlight. Over exposure to sun causes fading, yellowing and discoloration. It can also cause the plastics in the frame to crack. Transport and store you mask in a protective case for best results. It is also important to keep your mask away from sand as much as possible. Sand can work its way in between the frame and the mask skirt causing the mask to leak.

 

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SNORKELS

All of the snorkels featured at US Tactical are constructed of the highest quality materials. A snorkel transforms you into a marine mammal by changing the location of air intake. Thus enabling the diver or snorkeler to breathe without lifting their head out of the water.

Wearing Your Snorkel
Professional quality snorkels are designed to be worn on the left side of the mask. This is so the second stage of your regulator can be brought over the right should without fouling the snorkel. Even if you are not scuba diving, the snorkel should only be attached to the left side of the mask in order for the mouthpiece to face you. In general, the snorkel should sit further back on the side of the strap closer to the ear than the temple. Proper positioning will ensure the top of the snorkel sits further out of the water.

Adjusting Your Snorkel
All of our snorkels include the piece (snorkel retainer) to attach the snorkel to the mask. The styles vary slightly from model to model, however they all involve sliding the strap into place. Once you have attached the snorkel to the mask, position the snorkel retainer about midway on the bore of the snorkel, they put on your mask (with snorkel now attached). To check the fit of your snorkel turn the snorkel mouthpiece inward and try to place it in your mouth.

Snorkel Care And Maintenance
High quality Silicone snorkels should be rinsed in fresh water after each use, allowed to completely dry and stored in a cool dry place away from direct sunlight. Over exposure to sun causes fading, yellowing and discoloration. It can also cause the plastics to crack. It is also a good idea to remove the snorkel from the mask for transport and storage unless you are using the specific protective bag that fits both.

 

FINS

At US Tactical our fins are specifically selected for their features and quality in addition to being relatively true to size. This means that our size ranges relate to actual shoe sizes which makes it easier to get the right fit the first time.

Fin Care And Maintenance
Fins like most scuba and snorkeling equipment should be rinsed in fresh water after each use, allowed to completely dry and stored in a cool dry place away from direct sunlight. Do not store your fins on their tips. Most fin materials have a memory and the blades will become distorted. Over exposure to sun causes fading, yellowing and discoloration. Fins should never be exposed to extreme heat (like inside of a car in the summer). High temperatures can cause the different materials in the blade and the foot pocket to separate and/or warp. Fins straps are one of the most commonly broken items. It is a good idea to have a spare strap to “Save-A-Dive”.

Size:

The most practical dive knives are medium sized ones which are small enough to mount onto your BC are, leg, or arm, but large enough for you to grip securely. A dive knife with a four to five inch blade and similar sized handle is easily managed and can be a very useful tool once underwater.

Large knives (over 5 inch blade) can be awkward and can easily cut you or puncture you BC.

If buying a mini knife (2-3 inch blade) make sure that the handle is longer than 2-3 inches so you can grip it securely, especially with gloves on.

Shape:

Straight edges cut plastic, monofilament fishing line and nylon rope better. Serrated edges are more efficient at cutting natural fiber rope and kelp. With a serrated knife, serrations should run almost the entire length of the blade, making it possible to use a good sawing motion. Many dive knives on have both straight and serrated edges, making them great in a variety of situations.

Sharp tips most commonly used for spearfishing purposes. For other purposes such as prying, digging, hacking, and chiseling, however, it is easy to break a sharp tip off. This is where a blunt tip is useful. Sharp tips can also cut you or puncture your BC, so for a safe and effective tool, a blunt tip is the best.

You should also look for a line cutting notch, which can come in handy when cutting small lines.

Material:

Stainless Steel: Most dive knives are made steel, either 300 or 400-series stainless steel alloys. All "Stain-less" Steel knives will show some signs of rust due to their high carbon content (carbon creates tensile strength). Because stainless steel knives are not completely rustproof, they will require maintenance. After each use, rinse well with fresh water and dry outside of its sheath. Coat with a light layer of oil or silicone.

300-Series Alloy: The lower the number (300-series alloy), the more corrosion resistant the knife is, but the less able it is to keep a sharp edge. If you buy a 300-series alloy knife, you can spend a little less time on maintenance, but you'll have to sharpen it after a couple of uses. Remember, if you buy a blunt-tip knife, it is not always important that the edge is extremely sharp.

400-Series Alloy: A 400-series alloy knife will hold an edge for longer, but is more susceptible to corrosion, and may break if used as a pry bar. If you purchase a 400-series alloy knife you will need to wash and oil it after every use, but you won't have to sharpen it as often.

Titanium: Unlike stainless steel knives, titanium knives are almost completely rustproof and corrosion resistant because they contain no carbon. The result is a knife that will hold an edge for numerous dives without sharpening, and requires almost zero maintenance.